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United States History

Customized guides to research for specific HIS courses

Flapper Fannie says: "Silk is the least important thing that goes into hosiery."

Emily Spivack is a writer for The New York Times Fashion Magazine.

Her award-winning 2014 book Worn Stories, is a collection of writings about clothing and memory. She is on the faculty of the Pratt Institute.

Spivack, Emily. “The History of the Flapper: Part 1: A Call to Freedom.”
   Smithsonian.com. February 5, 2013.

-------. “The History of the Flapper: Part 2: Make-up Makes a Bold Entrance.”
   Smithsonian.com. February 26, 2013.

-------. “The History of the Flapper: Part 3: The Rectangular Silhouette.”
   Smithsonian.com. February 19 2013.

-------. “The History of the Flapper: Part 4: Emboldened by the Bob.”
   Smithsonian.com. February 26, 2013.

-------. “The History of the Flapper: Part 5: Who Was Behind the Fashions?
   Smithsonian.com. April 5, 2013.

   [P] Advertising Archives

   Ad* Access (Duke University)

   U.S. and Canadian advertisements
   covering five categories, including
   beauty and hygiene, 1911-1955

   [P] Consumer Mail-order Catalogs

   Montgomery Ward (1920)

     see esp. pp. 25 ff.

   Montgomery Ward (1916)

   Sears, Roebuck (1927) repr. 1970

   [P] Film

   The Blue Angel - Der blaue Engel (1930)

   The Clinging Vine (1926)

   Flesh and the Devil (1926)

   It (1927)

   The Joyless Street (1925) This is the heavily censored version

   Our Dancing Daughters (1928)

   Pandora’s Box (Die Bücshe der Pandora)

   [P] Archival film

   Hottest Hairstyles from the 1920s (vintage)

   How to Make a Handkerchief Bra (1921)

[S] Berry, Sarah. Screen Style: Fashion and Femininity in 1930s Hollywood. University of Minnesota, 2000.

Petro, Patrice. Aftershocks of the New: Feminism and Film History. Rutgers University Press, 2002.
     German film and the female spectator

Widdig, Bernd. Culture and Inflation in Weimar Germany. University of California Press, 2001. pp. 215 ff. ProQuest Ebook.

[S] Scholarly Journal Articles

Doan, Laura. ‘‘Passing Fashions: Reading Female Masculinities in the 1920s.’’ Feminist Studies 24, no. 3 (1998): 663-700.

Fields, Jill. "'Fighting the Corsetless Evil': Shaping Corsets and Culture, 1900-1930." Journal of Social History 33, no. 2 (1999): 355-84.

Fishbein, Leslie. "Dancing Mothers (1926): Flappers, Mothers, Freud, and Freedom." Women's Studies 12, no. 3 (1986): 241-250.

Funkenstein, Susan Laikin. "Fashionable Dancing: Gender, the Charleston, and German Identity in Otto Dix's "Metropolis." German Studies Review 28, no. 1 (2005): 20-44.

Gordon, Lynn D. ‘‘The Gibson Girl Goes to College: Popular Culture and Women’s Higher Education in the Progressive Era, 1890–1920.’’ American Quarterly 39 (1987): 211-30.


Hirshbein, Laura Davidow. ‘‘The Flapper and the Fogy: Representations of Gender and Age in the 1920s.’’ Journal of Family History 26, no. 1 (2001): 112-37.

McGovern, James R. "The American Woman's Pre-World War I Freedom in Manners and Morals." The Journal of American History 55, no. 2 (1968): 315-33. doi:10.2307/1899561.

Owen, Heather. "Beyond the Flapper: The Problem of "Snapshot" History." OAH Magazine of History 21, no. 3 (2007): 35-40.

Yellis, Kenneth A. "Prosperity's Child: Some Thoughts on the Flapper." American Quarterly 21,
no. 1 (1969): 44-64. doi:10.2307/2710772.

[P] Chronicling America. Library of Congress.
American Newspapers 1900-1925

[click links to browse]

American Girl

Beauty

Bobbed hair

Cosmetics

Corsetless women

Dancing

Dancing frock

The Feminine

Flappers

Frock

Jazz

Lingerie

Style

Search of the New York Times: Marlene Dietrich and "The Blue Angel"

[P]  Magazines and Periodicals

Bliven, Bruce. "Flapper Jane." New Republic 44, no. 562 (1925.): 65-67.

Hall, G. Stanley. “Flapper Americana Novissima.” Atlantic Monthly, vol. 129, June (1922): 771-780

Vanity Fair Magazine (1914-1922) published by Condé Nast Publications, Inc.
     "A record of current achievements in all the arts and a mirror of progress
      and promise in American life"

Spivack, Emily. “The History of the Flapper: Part 1: A Call to Freedom.”
   Smithsonian.com. February 5, 2013.

-------. “The History of the Flapper: Part 2: Make-up Makes a Bold Entrance.”
    Smithsonian.com. February 26, 2013.

-------. “The History of the Flapper: Part 3: The Rectangular Silhouette.”
   Smithsonian.com. February 19 2013.

-------. “The History of the Flapper: Part 4: Emboldened by the Bob.”
   Smithsonian.com. February 26, 2013.

-------. “The History of the Flapper: Part 5: Who Was Behind the Fashions?
   Smithsonian.com. April 5, 2013.

[S] Sample Database Searches (JSTOR)

Women in the 1920s

Fashion design in the 1920s

Book Sources using Library of Congress Subjects

Beauty 20th century

Women consumers United States 20th century

Advertising to women History

Feminity 20th century

Feminism and motion pictures

Women's clothing History

Lingerie History

Sample results:

Buckley, Cheryl, and Hilary Fawcett. Fashioning the Feminine: Representation and Women's Fashion from the Fin De Siecle to the Present. I.B. Tauris, 2002.

Deutsch, Tracey. Building a Housewife's Paradise: Gender, Politics, and American Grocery Stores in the Twentieth Century.  University of North Carolina Press, 2010.

Dyhouse, Carol. Glamour: Women, History, Feminism. Zed, 2010.

Fields, Jill. An Intimate Affair: Women, Lingerie, and Sexuality. University of California Press, 2007.

Hill, Daniel D. Advertising to the American Woman, 1900-1999. Ohio State University Press, 2002. HF5813 .U6 H55 2002  Fl. 2

Kitch, Carolyn L. The Girl on the Magazine Cover: The Origins of Visual Stereotypes in American Mass Media. University of North Carolina Press, 2001.

Macías, Anna. Against All Odds: The Feminist Movement in Mexico to 1940. Greenwood Press, 1982.

Sherrard-Johnson, Cherene. Portraits of the New Negro Woman: Visual and Literary Culture in the Harlem Renaissance.
Rutgers University Press, 2007.

Sample E-Book search for "Our Dancing Daughters"

Sample ACLS Ebook search "The Blue Angel"